The Eighteenth Century (History of Costume and Fashion volume 5), medieval- literatura, źródła

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A History of Fashion
and Costume
The Eighteenth
Century
Anne Rooney
The Eighteenth Century
Library of Congress Cataloging-
in-Publication Data
Copyright © 2005 Bailey Publishing Associates Ltd
Produced for Facts On File by
Bailey Publishing Associates Ltd
11a Woodlands
Hove BN3 6TJ
Rooney, Anne.
A history of fashion and costume.
The eighteenth century/Anne
Rooney.
p. cm.
Includes bibliographical references and
index.
ISBN 0-8160-5948-9
1. Clothing and dress—History—
18th century—Fashion—History—
18th century.
GT585.R66 2005
391/.009/033—dc 22
2005040156
Project Manager: Roberta Bailey
Editor: Alex Woolf
Text Designer: Simon Borrough
Artwork: Dave Burroughs, Peter Dennis,
Tony Morris
Picture Research: Glass Onion Pictures
Consultant:Tara Maginnis, Ph.D. Associate Professor
of the University of Alaska, Fairbanks, and creator
of the website,The Costumer's Manifesto
The publishers would like to thank the
following for permission to use their
pictures:
Printed and bound in Hong Kong
Art Archive: 9, 12, 17, 18,
32, 37 (top), 45, 47 (right), 49, 55
(both), 59
Bridgeman Art Library: 6, 7, 10 (top),
14, 16 (both), 27, 33 (top), 35 (both),
39, 41, 50, 58
Hanan and Farah Munayyer
Collection: 21 (top)
Peter Newark: 29 (both), 36, 38, 48
Topham: 26
Victoria & Albert Museum: 11, 23, 24,
25, 40, 42 (bottom), 44, 46, 52, 57
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be
reproduced or utilized in any form or by any
means, electronic or mechanical, including
photocopying, recording, or by any information
storage or retrieval systems, without permission in
writing from the publisher. For information
contact:
Facts On File, Inc.
132 West 31st Street
New York NY 10001
Facts On File books are available at special
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Contents
Introduction
5
Chapter 1: Changing Fashions in the West
6
Chapter 2: Worn Around the World
18
Chapter 3: Functional Fashions
32
Chapter 4: Not Just Clothes
48
Timeline
60
Glossary
61
Further Information
62
Index
64
Introduction
The eighteenth century saw the beginnings of the modern
fashion industry in Europe and America. Fashion magazines
appeared and the first fashion plates were produced. For the
first time, designs could be published and copied widely.
Fashions began to change quickly, led by Paris and London.
Designs were dictated not by practical needs but by trends
in art, culture, and politics, by new discoveries, technological
innovations, and scientific advances. Some European fashions
were, in fact, so impractical they rendered their wearers almost
incapable of everyday activity.
Elsewhere fashions changed slowly. In Asia, textile production
was already greatly advanced and beautiful garments had been
produced for centuries.Their designs evolved slowly, following
traditional or symbolic patterns, and were often linked to the
social and religious standing of the wearer.
In countries where the climate was warm, clothes could be
basic or even non-existent; the concept of changing fashions
was alien. In some places, simply structured garments were
beautifully adorned, following patterns and styles used for
generations without change.
This book traces the developing fashions of the West. But it
also looks at the strictly regulated clothing worn in the Far
East, where choosing the wrong color robe could bring dire
punishment. It visits the Inuit, who made clothes from fish
skin and the intestines of sea mammals. It looks at clothing
for special purposes, from the leather armor of the samurai
to shamans’ garments decorated with bones and bird beaks.
People around the world have delighted in decorating their
bodies and clothes. In their costumes, they leave a record of
their lives, their concerns, and their beliefs that unlocks the past.
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